Thursday, September 29, 2016

Faith



Yesterday, I shared this on faith. "'Faith is believing in what you cannot see, and the reward is seeing what you have believed in". We can only, in hindsight, connect the dots."

Someone later asked me to explain it. Here are some of my thoughts. Would love to understand your thoughts too...

Faith, to me, is not about God.
It is not about religion, of any kind.
It is not about temples.
It is not about idols. Or any ritualistic tenets.


Faith, to me, is our own personal and individual equation with the universe and with energy.
Faith in a belief that everything...all matter, all actions, all thoughts...is energy.
We can't see or have evidence of all forms of energy.
   Or of the flow of energy.
But we can believe in none or some or all forms of energy.
   And in the flow of energy.


The energy are all the dots - the matter, the actions, the thoughts... ...Our own and through our interaction with the universe.
And the flow is the connection between the dots.


Faith is not blind.
Faith does not even claim to know everything.
But it is sincere
It is sincere in its attempt to gain a clearer appreciation of the secret depths of the universe.


I was asked for an example of faith...


When we pick someone as our life partner, we may be all rosy about the future together. Or we may be badly scarred from previous relationships. Or we may be indifferent.
In any case, when we do decide to marry, it is not coming from a faith in ourselves, or faith in our to-be-spouse. Nor is it coming from a faith in love, or from faith in the institution of marriage. But we still take that leap of faith...a faith in "something". It is only later, in hindsight, as the relationship between the partners unfolds...in the form of actions, words, messages, deeds, thoughts...we can connect the dots, we can make some sense of the relationship.


And it's a continuous process. As everything is energy. And energy flows.

The same applies to our relationship with the universe.

On a spectrum, faith is on one end. And on the other end is expectation.
The expectation is for evidence...signs, actions, words...proof.
But if there is evidence...if everything is already proven...is there even a place for faith ? As then, all we have to do is observe what is already proven.


Hence.
"Faith is believing in what you cannot see, and the reward is seeing what you have believed in". We can only, in hindsight, connect the dots.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Being there

Yesterday was Pithori Amavasya also celebrated as "Matrudin" or Mother's Day in the Hindu calendar. Found out it was that day yesterday while browsing something online. I typically am unable to differentiate most "special" days in the Hindu calendar from each other, mainly as there are so many. The treasured (by many Maharashtrians) "Kaalanirnay" almanac is treasured the most by my dear mother-in-law. But I am sure she has her very own in-built Kaalanirnay app embedded in her system. I know this because even when she is without her Kaalnirnay copy...such as this time when she forgot it in India during the last trip there (so now our house in India has two copies and no one in the house to be reminded of all those days), she still knows most of the many "special days" we have that can be potentially observed as festivals / auspicious days. I think it's her wonderful tracking mechanism that just lets her know how many days are past the full moon or no moon. And then the days get automatically tracked somewhere in her super system. And all this even though the exact date of the Roman calendar may not always be known to her. I never cease to be amazed at it. So for instance, I had heard from her a couple days ago that Thursday was "Pola" a special day marked in Maharashtra's villages when bulls have been traditionally worshipped for their immense contribution to farming. But I hadn't heard from her about Pithori Amavasya so when I found out it was, a lot of memories came flooding in. 
Pithori Amavasya brought to mind vivid pictures of childhood when in our family, it was celebrated as "Matrudin" or Mothers Day. On this day, Aai (as we called my mum) would have a fixed menu she would make - "ukdiche modak" (sweet steamed dumplings made with a rice flour cover and coconut and jaggery filling), a sautéed green peas and coconut vegetable dish, rice kheer and varan-bhaat (varan, a simple dal made with toor dal, served with rice and a dollop of homemade ghee on top). She made this every year, irrespective of whether it was a week day or not. She'd get back from work and make all these dishes hot and steaming, serve the food on a banana leaf on a plate - for my brother and me.
And then my mother would sit down on a flat wooden seat in front of the "devgarh" (the place of worship in the house) and place the plate on her head with both her hands. My brother would stand behind her, also holding the plate, both his hands resting on hers. And then she would ask him:
"Jali asta haath dey
Vani asta saath dey
Majhya paathi maage kon aahe?"
And he answered with:
"Mee aahe!"
Roughly translated, it will read as follows (though the translation really does take the poetic warmth and charm out of it)
"If I'm in water, and in need of a hand
If I'm in the forest, and in need of company
Who is behind me?"
And answer was: "I am!"
And she would ask this thrice totally and he would answer thrice. And then she would pass the plate to my brother. 
And then she would take the second plate, and I would stand behind her in the same manner and the verse would be repeated with me. And then both my brother and I would proceed to enjoy the steaming hot delicacies made by her. 
This simple gesture was done every year on Pithori Amavasya day and we always observed this as Matrudin or Mothers Day. I always thought this was the sweetest thing we did and said to our mother. When we said what we did...all saying it three times and all...it felt like we were making a solemn promise to ourselves. That whatever happens, we will be there for her. That when in need, we are there to take care of her. 
If we had a visiting cousin (since my uncles and aunts lived closeby) or a friend who happened to be there that evening or was staying with us, banana leaf plates would be prepared for them too. And they too would get to say the "Mee ahe!" if they wanted to. 
As we had always done this in our home and some of my other aunts also observed it in a similar manner in their homes, I came to believe it was passed down from my father's mother to her daughters-in-law. I hadn't seen this practice observed at my in-laws and after I had children, somehow with the demands on time, I never got around to observe Mother's Day in this special and beautiful way at my own home. Do you know if Mother's Day was traditionally observed like this or any other way anywhere else too in India? Would love to hear from you. 
And on this Mother's Day, I'd like to wish a Happy Mother's Day to all the wonderful people here who end up playing motherly roles for various people in their lives. Coz the more I pay attention to that verse we recited as children, wasn't it about "being there" as parents for our parents in their time of need...whatever that need would come up mean. And I've come to understand that "mother" or "child" does not just come from who you're born to...or who you've given birth to...or from whether you're a man or woman. 
It's so much more than that. Coz who we are mother to or child to comes as much from "being there" for someone in their time of need. I've come to understand that that someone could be anyone..our parents, our spouse's parents, a friend, a relative, a stranger...Also our parents may become not only children to us at some time, but as they are adult children and our erstwhile parents too, they can be quite stubborn children to us. 
I've come to understand that "being there" for someone in their time of need is a privilege as well as an opportunity we all get at some or the other time in our lives. And we need to remember that when someone is in need, they don't always like it that they're in need. They'd much rather be able to fend for themselves and take care of themselves. So the grace with which we are there for someone matters as much as being there for someone. How we deal with it, with them and most importantly with it all in our minds...THAT makes the difference. That's not to say being there for someone with grace means it will all make it easy...that we won't get frustrated or tired sometimes. That our routine will not be disturbed. That our little cocoon of life we've built for ourselves with such pain and effort will not be disrupted to some or more degree. But if we can just bring in the perspective that their time of need will in the long term come to pass, and our routine and cocoon of life will fall back in place, we can bring in grace to our being there and to our care giving. 
Having recently myself been in a position to be there for someone, but in my act of giving also needing to be a child to someone, I can only feel immense gratitude for both - the opportunity to be there for someone, and for the friend who mothered me in my time of need. 
"If I'm in water, and in need of a hand
If I'm in the forest, and in need of company
Who is behind me?"
And the answer for me and for that mother-friend of mine was: "I am!"

With my love to all,
Dipali

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Wings

Oh to see you be like the birds
To sing, to take off, to soar
To know what is to be alive
And free at its very core

To bring young ones into the world
To feed them and watch them grow
Help them take wings each day
Only to one day, let them go

And while tending to them
Keep your own wings strong
Knowing your own time to fly
Isn't ever truly gone

So why weren't you more like the birds
That you carved your own limits
Got so caught up in your duties
That you forgot to feed your spirit

So keep your songs intact and your wings strong
Don't ever let them go lame
The ground is as much yours
As the sky is yours to claim

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Here forever. Gone forever.

Not able to comprehend why...my last trip to India was an emotional one. Maybe it had to do with it coinciding with what would have been my dad's 81st birthday. And it coming close to what will be his first death anniversary.
It was not my first trip in the last one year. But the sense of loss that kept creeping up on me was intense. Losing one parent is crushing (It took me twelve years to pen something down after my mother's death.
Then you lose another...
When you think of it, it's not like we are "orphaned" in our 40s. But we are orphaned. And it does not matter what age we are when they're gone. Or what age they were when they're gone...

I feel so fortunate to have had the parents I did. And I know they would only want me to be strong and positive and live life head-on.
A few lines penned down in memory of my dearest Appa...


Gone forever. Here forever.

How long does it take
For the pain to numb down
The sharp pangs of loss
Now too well known

Your face looms up in a picture
Vivid memories from our talks
Of so many things I learnt from you
You were always there as my rock

Knowing that the rock is no more
And that sense of intense loss?
Does it keep growing in strength
Like a stone gathering moss?

Your eyes sparkling with mischief
The laughter ready in your voice
A constant source of strength you were
For so many, their go-to-man of choice

The memories...
Of favourite songs you sang
Or your idioms of family fame
But...
Mostly, I keep recalling
When your voice called out my name

And then, the last few days of your life
That you came to spend with me
Under my care and vigil
Tending to your every whim

How's it that you came to me
Not so much as a father, but as a baby
Demanding every minute of mine
Calling for me as a child would his mummy

Call me daddy, call out to me
I hope I was there for you
Through all the times
When you wanted me near you

You came to a land afar
And touched a hundred new lives
With your stories of grit and wisdom
For the young and old alike

What gives us solace
Is that your end was swift
Hopefully you didn't feel much pain
As your life made the lift...

...Upward and onward to another place
From where I know you watch
All that's going on with us
As you live forever with us

How long does it take
For the pain to numb down
It will never go, I know
As you're gone forever.
I know.

Monday, August 17, 2015

Himalayan Trek - The Great Lakes of Kashmir

It's that time again when the mountains beckon, and you know another trek is on the cards. I had skipped an April trek in Uttarakhand, wanting to explore the Himalayas differently. And different it was...with the Great Lakes of Kashmir trek, a 6 days-7 nights trek that starts from Sonmarg and goes deep into the mountains, passes and valleys of Kashmir.

This time around, I will describe the trek, not so much through a day-by-day account, but as snippets of what the eyes, heart and mind experience while there. Hope it gives you a glimpse of what I felt, and hope it inspires some of you to go experience it yourself too.

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We are just beginning to settle down for lunch on the mountain slopes on our descent to Naranag on the last day of the trek. Suddenly from behind us, two gun-bearing soldiers dressed commando style charge down the slopes from behind us, one of them shouting "Idhar milega. Idhar milega". Tensed with the thought of who could be coming from the pine forests below, we stopped all our work to stare at them...until one of them stretched his hand out on the slope below to check if he was catching mobile network. 

The armed forces make their presence felt on this trek as I've never experienced on other treks.  They are first visible as soon as you land in Srinagar, with small groups of armed forces on the sides of the roads and dotting the landscape within the thickets of trees and along farms of rice, corn and apple or walnut on our way to Sonmarg. There are three army checkposts we come across on our trekking trail, the first is at the trek's start from Sonmarg. The military is posted here mainly for the safety and security of trekkers, this being a popular trekking trail among Indians and foreigners. When a foreigner trekker didn't report out from the other end of the trail a few weeks earlier, these army men had gone looking for her and only when they found out she had exited the trail at another point, they were assured of her safety. 

The next Gadsar army checkpost turned out to be the location of our campsite on Day 4. Most of the jawans (soldiers) posted on this trekking trail are from Rashtriya Rifles. They are based here for months at a stretch, and with these locations receiving more than 20-22 feet of snow, the army will leave these posts starting November. You soon realize that the soldiers are as excited meeting you and talking with you, given how little interaction they'd have with others in these remote far flung locations. 

All checkposts proudly have the national flag fluttering, and four flags denoting the four leading religions of India - Hinduism, Islam, Christianity and Sikhism. Somehow, seeing the Indian flag fluttering wildly in the wind in these remote locations tugs at the heartstrings in a way that leaves one feeling quite choked with emotion. 

The Satsar army checkpost along the way from Gadsar to Megandob on Day 5 was one such. Located at an altitude of 3800 meters and less than 20 kms from the Pakistan border, our entire group of sixteen sang the national anthem here with the soldiers with the flag flying high and our voices blowing in all directions with the strong winds. By the time we ended with Jai Hind!, we realized that not one of us was left dry-eyed. 


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You get a good mix of terrain on this trekking trail. You wade through or cross streams and rivers (you're often best advised to take off your socks and shoes and wade through the shallow sections rather than trying to jump over the rocks and invariably slipping and getting yourself wet). 

You climb...or jump...over rocks and boulders, especially near the streams and rivers. At the this time of the year when the summer has melted most of the snow, you still see snow in the higher reaches and also get a little snow to walk over at some places. 

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Forests - dense covers of pine, silver birch, maple - are found only on the first and last days of the trek. Other than that you don't get to see a single tree for majority of the way. 

But you don't really notice this fact, as your senses are filled with lush green grass all over mountain slopes, rolling meadows and valleys. It's the kind of green that not only provides a nice soft cushion for your feet as you walk hour after hour, day after day.
 It's also the kind of green that sends you very inviting messages to roll down the slopes, until the little stones and rocks embedded between the grass deter you from converting that thought into action. 



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Early mornings usually have clouds that hang thick and low on the mountain slopes just in front of you, as if they've decided to sit down for a bit of rest from all their drifting around.



Even during summer (which is when this trail is best done), you often find yourself in the middle of clouds. At many times during the trek, especially when doing the long climbs to the summits, you find yourself walking in the clouds...with the cool mist in the clouds softly settling over you. 



On the way to Vishansar, you cross the stream and look above to see the steep ascent, wondering how you're going to do it. You start climbing and slowly you realize the thinner air is making your legs heavier and your breath shorter. Your steps gets smaller and you try to maintain a steady rhythm. You see you are following the stream in a reverse direction, climbing higher until the stream is a rapid waterfall. Climbing further until the waterfall is just a small rivulet again. But now the waters are surrounded by glaciers with the clouds floating all around, reducing visibility and giving everything around a mysterious foggy appearance. Some of the glaciers along the edges have neatly carved patterns on them resembling the walls of an igloo as remembered from schooldays. The air is still thinner, and you can feel the coolness - from both the high altitude and from the mist of the clouds. 

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Not all mountains are green. Some are full of craggy black stony surfaces. The patches of snow on them try to soften their hard appearance...but as some hastily applied talcum powder, it does little to reduce its raw wildness. Others have sharply etched stone surfaces along their slopes making for interesting sedimentary patterns. Most of them have never been climbed, such as Mount Harmukh that at 5142 meters is the highest in that region of Kashmir and towers over Gangabal Lake, with some of its glacial waters still melting into the lake. The lake has another gushing waterfall on the opposite side that feeds water from the high mountains. This site was considered sacred by Hindu pilgrims before the Amarnath Yatra.

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For the first two days, you're left wondering where the lakes are on the Great Lakes of Kashmir trail. Then they start appearing by the end of day 2 of the trek, all majestic and bright blue-green, and cosily nestled between mountains. 


There is the Vishansar lake that is viewed after a short walk from your campsite on Day 2. Kishensar Lake and its scenic surrounding form a constant and splendid view for you as you make your steep ascent on Day 3. 







The Gadsar lake makes a delightful appearance on Day 4 as you push your tired body anxiously waiting for your lunch break. When suddenly after a bend in the mountain, this stop appears in front of you with the river flowing into a bright blue-green lake. The brightly colored flowers in the grass also form a stark background for the beautiful black mountain at the back of the lake that has it own little waterfall spilling its icy contents into the lake. Can there be a more picturesque lunch spot?


Gangabal twin lakes (including Kolesar lake which the twin is known by) is the location of your last campsite, also providing a perfect spot for a dip in the cold waters of the lake or in the gushing waterfall adjoining it. 

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Ascending mountains is hard and strenuous. Unlike the earlier treks I had done in the Uttarakhand Himalayan range, this route had not one, but many ascents to passes and summits upto 4300 mtrs (14000+ feet). During some ascents, we particularly felt the strain of the steep gradient and the thinner air of the high altitudes. Small baby steps was the mantra we picked up from some of our more experienced trekkers. Sometimes, you feel like you're just putting one foot in front of the other like a zombie, conversations between you and fellow trekkers reduced to grunts or gestures to pass the water bottles. 

Descents come in all varieties. Some include wider trails and roll smoothly along lush green meadows, such as what we experienced on days 2, 3 and 4 to Vishansar, Gadsar and Megandob via Satsar respectively. Other descents such as on days 5 and 6 are treacherous. 

And different trekkers take to descents differently. Some who can barely put one foot in front of the other on an ascent, suddenly start sprinting down almost as if a button has been switched on, and all they can do is run forward at full speed. 
Some others get taken up by fear of heights on the way down especially if the descent route is narrow and / or slippery. Over a few treks, most will realize that the fears have calmed down and a good steady pace help you reach your destination in a reasonable time and with lesser aches in your knees. 


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Flowers! Anything that can be said about the flowers here will be inadequate. It is very interesting that at an altitude and climate where trees cannot survive, little flowers of so many varying shapes and colours not only survive but thrive so wonderfully. 
It is almost as if they are defying the terrain and saying "you may be all massive and tough, but I can still be little and flourish in my bright colours. You can loom over us all you want with your giant size, we are happy swaying with the wind so close to the ground". 


You see them on many large parts of the trail, providing a multi colored carpet over the valleys and the meadows, or looming their dainty pretty heads between the boulders along the rivers. Stretches of yellow flowers continue for vast distances, until purple varieties mingle with yellow...and then there's stretches of purple flowers. And so on with pink, orange, white, many different shades of blue. I tried to capture them on camera but every time you think you've seen them all, one more variety makes it appearance. Be careful not to spend too much time sitting or lazing about in the flowers as some of the flowers are said to create a heady feeling. 

At some places, you see rocks that have developed interesting patterns in bright red (from their iron) and fluorescent green (from the lichen), adding further colour to this dazzling display of nature. 

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There are no roads anywhere close to you on your path once you leave Sonmarg until your last day when you make your steep descent to Naranag.  There are instead trails made by other trekkers who've been this way before you, and by shepherds who've been grazing their sheep here for hundreds of years. Everything about their routine is done at its own pace, and in a way that looks untouched for many generations. 


There are no settlements you see, and the few people you do see on these mountains and valleys are on the move. Along with them are hundreds and hundreds of sheep and sheep-herding dogs. And then there are the horses and a few horse-riders...who start as small dots on the horizon of an unending valley of flowers. And then before your eyes, they loom larger and larger until they cross you galloping away on the back of their horses in the wind. As you watch them gallop by in those massive green open valleys surrounded by even more massive mountains, you're thinking...is this for real?
Lying down another time after the day's trek on the blue tarpaulin laid out on the grass, with the river gurgling a few meters below you. You are surrounded by rough edged black mountains on one side...and green rolling slopes in the other, with one slope letting a long white waterfall roll down its side. You and your fellow trekkers have just finished an impromptu open air massage session for each other.with half-open eyes, you're watching the sun play hide and seek with the clouds as they waft in and out between the mountains. An artist among us is sitting on the grass next to me with her water colours capturing on paper the scenic beauty that lies ahead of her. You hear some movement and a couple of horses who were drinking water from the stream are casually trotting in your midst to cross over to the other side of the meadow. And you're thinking again...is this for real?


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The Himalayas stand out for their sheer scale. Everything here is served in mega portions. And it's a good thing being here, being surrounded by its vastness...exploring its vastness on foot. When you traverse this terrain, it is both a humbling and an energizing experience. You appreciate a little more how minuscule you are amidst the vastness of these mountains and valleys that lie strong for centuries and centuries, unconquered for the most part. 




You stay open to the abundant energy within these open natural spaces, and strangely you can actually feel Nature restoring your energy, filling your cells with its abundance despite your body being pushed on a daily basis. In the process of ascending and descending its surfaces, you not only feel a step closer to Mother Nature in its purest form...you also feel a few steps closer to yourself. In putting one foot ahead of the other, you develop a connection - with the ground below...with the mountains and skies above and the universe beyond...and deep within you. 

The Great Lakes of Kashmir trek is a moderately tough trek, given the duration (6 days of long walks, ascents and descents, 7 nights of camping), high altitudes of unto 4300 meters (14000+ feet) and the mixed terrain. But with enough stamina building and gearing up physically before the trek and with the right spirit of adventure, it's a splendid trail that even first timers can enjoy. 

When you're back to the cities, you realise that what you've come from is all real...What we have in these pockets of Nature are how Nature meant them to be in the first place. In order for it to be preserved like this, we all need to play our part in treating it with respect and with love. Fortunately, despite this being a popular trekking route, it has been treated very well by the trekking community making sure there are clean campsites, no trash along the trail, and an overall pristine experience for others to enjoy. After all, when it comes to Nature, however much she has to offer us, I think she mostly tells us to leave her alone and untouched. 

Monday, March 9, 2015

The great Indian disease

It was international women's day yesterday. It is and should be a celebration of everything we are. So cheers to us! It's nice to have a day dedicated to us (just as it's nice to have a day dedicated to fathers and mothers and children...and so many more). This time, per my promise to myself, I want to write about something I feel strongly about. It is my story. But I am sure it's not just mine alone.

The Jyoti Singh rape incident in Delhi (a.k.a. "Nirbhaya" or fearless, or India's daughter) was not the first rape in India or in the world. But the news of it had done something to me even before it spread like wildfire and created a storm like never before. The morning after, when I woke up and read about it in the paper, I gagged at the horror of it. The feelings of rage and anguish rose within me like bile, that I had to will myself to control it and go to work and continue leading "just another day". Throughout the day at office, my mind kept going to that morning newspaper. By the lunch hour, the news was already picking up like wildfire across the online world, and the topic came up amongst the five of us having our lunch together.

We were two women and three men. The discussion went from a quick recount of the incident to what needs to be done to the rapists (who hadn't yet been caught then) and to ensure this does not happen again. My other woman colleague was fairly quiet during that time partly because I think she hadn't read the morning paper that day. So it was mostly me and the three men talking. At one stage of the discussion, we talked about what kind of punishment needs to meted out, not just to bring justice to the victim and her family, but also as a means to dissuade and prevent crimes and atrocities on women.

Then one of my colleagues, someone who I had worked with for several years and have respected for his fairly balanced views on most things, said something that stunned me. He asked, quite in genuine curiosity, why rape should deserve a punishment any different from other crimes such as robbery or even tax evasion. What is wrong is wrong, he said. I tried to explain why it's not like robbery or tax evasion. Why it was not even equal to murder, but worse than that. I explained how in case of a murder, unless the murderer is a complete psycho, there is a motive - either in offense or defense - to take the life of someone else. However in a rape, or a sexual assault, I questioned, what is the motive. It is driven not by a sexual need or a surge of passion. But it is driven by a need to exercise power. And the victim is often a woman that the assaulters think they can exercise power over. And they do it in any way that they can do it. And they do it any time that a chance presents itself. All of these were points of view I was trying to put across, but I realized I was not getting through. I tried to explain how women feel like they are easy targets, what the feeling of being "commoditized" for the body does to us.

At one stage, one of my colleagues asked if I thought all men were like that. I tried to explain that was not so. I wanted to explain that for all the hundreds of wonderful caring sensitive men we came across, coming across even one man who disrespects a woman, just because she is a woman makes for a terrible terrible experience. However, he was too agitated to hear any more. We all broke from that lunch break, returning to our desks, quite shaken (I definitely was). A little later, another male colleague sitting right next to me started reading out something that came up on his WhatsApp. Midway through I realized it was a joke about the rape. My eyes stung.

I felt helpless. Because I knew all these men were wonderful thinking, feeling people. But I couldn't help wondering about their reaction. Do they really know what it is to walk in women's shoes? How many of the men have had the women in their lives tell them when they have been physically assaulted? If the men knew, would they get any close to the sense of why I felt the despair and rage that I did? That I still do.

Being an Indian is truly wonderful. We are so unique and varied in so many ways. And living in India as a girl and woman is amazing. It means a massive lot of positive things. We are a democracy and a free country and that itself makes it possible to achieve the things we do in our country. I grew up in Mumbai and was brought up in a liberal minded family and had gender equality ingrained in me right from my childhood by my parents. I studied, played, commuted, travelled, worked shoulder to shoulder with both genders. But somewhere along the journey, I realized there is a difference and I wondered why being a girl felt awkward, felt quite sick sometimes. That realization started early on when as a little fifth grade girl going to school by BEST bus an old man would everyday rub his dhoti-clad balls against me. Wherever I would be sitting or standing in the bus, he would find me. I was naive enough to think he wanted to pee so badly that he was trying to control it by holding it against my body! As I didn't quite know what happened then, I didn't tell anyone. After a few days, I just stopped taking that bus.

Age makes us wiser, and tougher. So subsequent bus journeys across the city of Mumbai meant dodging various tactics for bottom-pinching, breast-grabbing by the palm, a "subtle" breast touching by the elbow (this is a favourite) or claws of men. I could see that whatever possible, whenever possible, however possible, men want a piece of it...anything for a feel of a woman's flesh. You can randomly ask any Indian woman / girl who has travelled and commuted using public transport. Every one of them would have faced it.

A little older and as I started traveling by local train in the eleventh grade, a man jumped into the train compartment I was sitting in at VT station one afternoon and pulled out his stuff and start shagging right there in front of me. I was alone in that compartment and almost shat bricks myself. But when I started moving toward him yelling loudly at him, he scampered outside desperately trying to tuck his treasures inside his trouser. Another time of getting bottom-pinched hard at another peak-crowd train terminus staircase had me slap the cheek off the guy who did it. Even as city-bred girls in Mumbai, we were learning to fend for ourselves in ways that we could.

But if I grew more alert all along, there were times later when during long distance bus journeys from Mumbai to Pune and back, when somebody from the back seat would try to finger his way between the seats to feel some flesh. So again, screaming and yelling on the bus journey to just tell a man to keep his hands to himself. This may sound familiar to those who watched that girl passenger in that Indian flight who recently video shamed the man who was groping her from behind her seat. If we had mobile cameras then, we'd do that too.

This is not to say traveling by public transport is the only bane. Each of us has a personal story of atleast one creepy uncle (or some male family member) who has spent a better part of his lifetime devising techniques to feel up or to rub against girls and women of the family.

Some women put up a fight. Many just bear it and go about their daily lives. But the key question for all of to ask is - If we are such a great nation, why is this so rampant? At times like this, I have often wished we would stop with the whole sham in our country of calling women as goddesses. Women don't want to be a goddess. We just want to treated as a human being. Where our body is not made for the visual and tactile pleasure of sick men. Where we are able to go about an otherwise simple uneventful task of commuting from point A to point B instead of it being ridden with so many hazards to the female body and to the female psyche.

In wake of the recent controversy related to the Jyoti Singh documentary, a lot of questions and debates arose. Without getting pulled into the controversy, I strongly believe that we need more sharing of this disease - of attitude, of mindset - that we have. It is endemic to our society. If those of us who grew up in cities face the sickness, we always think of what it is like in other remoter areas of the country. We have achieved one thing in India - We have this disease that is truly free of age. Or of religion. Or of geographical location. Or of caste. Or of socio-economic status. I didn't get gang-raped in that bus. Or stripped and raped and hanged to the tree. Or assaulted and burnt alive. But I feel the same pain that each woman goes through.

We don't just need more documentaries out there. I also believe each of us - men and women - need to ask the women and girls in our lives. What is it they have faced - what does disrespect mean to them.

And I also believe we need to make sure that as we hear of more horrors and sicknesses, we don't closet the girls and women in our lives to lead more "protected" lives. Because by insulating them from these sicknesses, we are actually feeding the virus. As that virus will then realize that it is winning. That it is conquering through fear, what it always wants us to do. To keep women indoor and unseen. When that defense lawyer in the documentary talks about a woman as a "flower" and how that same flower can be used for worship or can land in the gutter - we need to be aware that by keeping all the women and girls at home, we are feeding into this sick mindset.

We are not the only country where this happens. But we need to do what we can to rid our country of this disease.

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

The marvels of ancient civilizations - snapshots from Turkey (part 1 of 2)


Going through my pictures from last year's Turkey trip reminds me I have only partially covered that memorable trip in previous blogposts. In a span of ten days, my friend Neeta and I covered a wide range of places from the cross-contintental Turkish capital of Istanbul, to Cappadocia region and Pamukkale in central Turkey, and from there on to Selcuk, Sirince and Ephesus in south-western Turkey.

A key reason behind the planning of this trip was to see and experience what this land holds in terms of the 
many spectacular locations of ancient civilization dating back to our earliest existence as humans. This trip definitely brought alive the thirst to understand more about how some of our ancient civilizations arose, lived, flourished and faded (some of this interest also led to my Ignite talk on ancient civilizations from this trip). 


To appreciate the historical riches the land of Turkey holds, one needs to appreciate the history of ancient civilizations. Records of the earliest human civilizations date back to 3300 BC. And Turkey has formed an integral part of ancient civilization right since then due its location in the "Fertile Crescent" region. As our early human ancestors moved from Africa upward and westward, the earliest humans set civilization and flourished in this region  with adequate water supplies and fertile lands, that came to be known as the "cradle of civilization", and later as Asia Minor.

I have previously written about the other-worldly natural formations of the Cappadocian region and exploring its hills and valleys. We continue our stay at our quaint cave-roomed hotel in Goreme, and soon head to the Goreme Open Air Museum. Plan for a minimum of two hours to walk around this museum, which is actually a large monastic-like complex that has some of the best examples of rock cut churches from the 10th and 11th centuries. Its numerous frescoes, painted in natural dyes, represent scenes from the Bible. Some of them have tombs inbuilt, and if you peek into a few, do not be too surprised to find a skeleton of two grinning at you (I am not joking, there are some very old and well-preserved glass-cased remains here). The  Dark Church (Karanlik Kilise) has the best preserved frescoes, given that it has stayed in the dark for centuries (even now, the entrance is opened only as required and for an additional fee of 10 Lira). Fortunately photography within all churches is prohibited enabling some more generations to view these ancient works of art and architecture. By the time we leave the museum, the setting sun has cast a magical golden glow on the rocky churches and mountains around us.

The day long "Green Tour" of Cappadocia has us meandering through a comfortable 3 hour trail through the deep gorge of Ilhara valley along the Melendiz river, stopping by to see for some more stone cut churches (though these are not to beat the ones we had seen in Goreme), a leisurely Turkish lunch at a log restaurant in the middle of the river, and quick detour aided by our guide, Gulchin, to see an opal blue tinted volcanic lake. 

But the high point of this tour is very low..180 m low in fact! At Derinkuyu in Nevsehir province of Cappadocia, there is an entire ancient underground city. Carved into the rock here around 4000 years ago by the Phyrgians (an ancient Indo-European people), 
in later centuries to be consecutively occupied by the Romans, Greeks, Byzantine and early Christians as a hiding place from the various invaders of their times. Dug into the soft volcanic rock by the most primitive tools of those times, the city expanded to 8 floors (levels), 4 of which are now open to visitors. The underground city was large enough to shelter around 20,000 people, together with their livestock and food supplies, and provided refuge during war times for months together. As I descend into the network of underground pathways, tunnels and steep inclined corridors, I am well and truly stumped by the level of planning and thought that has gone into building this entire subterranean city dwelling. 


To sustain a "normal underground life" during invasion, there are places cordoned off for family rooms, large dining areas (with their stone dining tables), wineries (stone pits to extract and collect wine that flows down), prayer rooms, burial grounds (at the bottom levels), stables for the livestock and cattle (in the higher uppermost level so as to allow their odours out faster). The planning of air (and water) ducts made sure these utilities could circulate right down to the lowermost reaches underground, and at the same time, can be hidden to avoid contamination and poisoning from above by the invaders. Large round stone doors, that can only be operated from within, could be quickly slid into place during an attack. 


The next day, we make a quick 20 minute ride by local bus from Goreme to Avanos to check what has been a beautiful hub of Turkish pottery since the period of the Hittites in 2000 B.C. situated on the banks of the Kizilirmak, the Red River. Next is a long 14 hour bus ride with a day long stop-over at Pamukkale. Pamukkale (meaning Cotton Castle) is famous for its travertines (terraced mountain layers) made of limestone deposits formed over 15,000 years giving it its striking snow-white colour and cotton-puffy look. The hot water springs flowing from the mountains gave it its unique terrace formations. The water temperature ranges from 52 deg C at its source (where it is also rich with sulphur fumes) to ice cold at the bottom of the terraces, that contain its own unique shades of opal blue waters to wade in. These very thermal springs and hot spas are what drew some ancient people to settle here and there are some awe-inspiring testimonies of ancient cities right here in Pamukkale too. But more on these and fascinating places in the next posts. As you walk through the travertines barefoot (this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that prohibits footwear to preserve the fragile ecosystem), you also appreciate that Pamukkale is also just the right place to get roasted if you ever want to in one quick day. So make sure you carry your hat, water and sunscreen along. 

In these ten days, we have had glimpses of human civilization spread over thousands of years. Time takes a completely different dimension here. When I visited places that have been built and inhabited by humans from several centuries B.C., it's truly strange how those built as long back as 1375 A.D. (Isabey Mosque in Selcuk) or or 1609 A.D. (Sultan Ahmet Mosque, aka Blue Mosque) seem very recent by comparison! 

- Pictures and Content Copyright - Dipali Ekbote